Adventures in Patagonia: 18. Cape Horn

5th Dec 2013

It has been a bit rough overnight and I'm not confident that we will get to land on Cape Horn, if the seas are too rough it makes getting into and out of the Zodiacs a challenge at best and extremely dangerous at worst. It is an early start with 1st breakfast at 6am and disembarkation at 6.30, Andrew feeling sea sick is a sure sign it is a bit rough and the wait for the decision on whether we can land or not seems interminable ( especially when your husband is sick and whingy ) We are in luck and it is decided that we can land on Horn Island, it seems fitting that a place that has claimed so many sailors lives over the years is bleak, windy, very cold and generally miserable. We walk along board walks to the wandering albatross memorial then to the chapel and light house before it is time to head back to the ship. The wind and waves have picked up by the time we get to the ship and the zodiac is rising and falling a good two meters as we are embarking so the timing of your step from the zodiac to the ship is imperative, that the crew have many years practice at this is obvious as the transfers are achieved with minimum fuss and maximum efficiency and safety.

Cape Horn

Andrew glad to be on solid ground - he was suffering from some sea sickness

Cape Horn landing site

Wandering albatross memorial in the distance

Andrew's excited to be walking on Cape Horn. Light house and chapel in the distance.

Me refusing to go in the chapel in case it or I burst into flames

Cape Horn light house

Heading back down to the zodiacs

I'm ready to get out of the cold wind and rain

After an ok breakfast we head up to the Darwin lounge to watch a film about Darwin in Tierra del Feugo and despite falling asleep a few times I did manage to learn a bit about, Darwin, Robert Fitzroy, Pringle Stokes, Fuegia Basket and the voyage of the Beagle. The quick version; Darwin developed his theory of evolution mainly from discoveries made while in Tierra del Fuego, his dad wanted him to be a Dr but he didn't have the stomach for it, then a priest but he went on to study geography. Pringle Stokes shot himself, he was the 1st captain of the Beagle. Robert Fitzroy was only 26 when made captain of the Beagle. The voyage of the Beagle took 5 years. Four Fuegians where taken back to England to be educated, Fuegia Basket, Jemmy Button, York Minster and Boat Memory only three returned to Tierra del Fuego. Yes these little gems may be some what on the incomplete side, I'm surprised I remembered this much as I fell in and out of dream filled sleep lulled by the gentle swaying of the boat. We did a quick tour of the bridge before lunch, more seafood, followed by an afternoon nap, anyone who has done a cruise with me knows that it is the only time in my entire life that I sleep really well, we would do a lot more cruises for no other reason than allowing me to catch up on much needed sleep if Andrew didn't get sea sick.

Andrew about to get into mischief again

Navigation chart showing our route around Cape Horn

After lunch we had our second stop for the day at Wulaia Bay on Navarino Island, after an easy walk up to a look out point which included multiple stops along the way as our guide told us about the history, flora and fauna of the area we spent awhile in the simple museum before enjoying a whiskey on the rocks ( the rocks in this case being glacial ice ) followed by a hot chocolate. Back on the ship it was a choice of spaghetti or fish for dinner and Andrew and I, as per standard alternate drop protocol, share until I decide which one I like and then Andrew gets the other one, unless I don't like either then he has to eat both so we don't offend our hosts. Works for me.